A Tech’s Favorite RV Caulks and Sealants (Not Just Another Schmoozy Amazon List!)

Hello RV owner! If you’ve browsed the shelves at your local Camping World, then you know … there are a dizzying number of RV caulks and sealants on the market!

How do you choose?!

Before you finish this list, read how to maintain the exterior of your RV. Then come back here to pick the best RV caulk or sealant for your particular application. But don’t get overwhelmed. Ultimately, you only really need three tubes of sealant in your RV toolbox:

  1. A roof self-leveling sealant
  2. A non-sag caulk for the sidewalls
  3. An adhesive sealant for gasketing
  4. Butyl tape, of course!

I’ll make it even easier on you! If you hate making decisions, then there’s a 95% chance this selection will work for you:

  • XTRM Universal Self-Leveling (or Alpha Systems 1021) for the roof self-leveling sealant.
  • Geocel ProFlex RV (or Alpha Systems N2100) for the non-sag caulk.
  • SikaFlex 221 (or 3M 4200FC) for the adhesive sealant.

What This Guide Is NOT About …

RV adhesives, caulks and sealants is a big topic. So I don’t cover the following:

This article just covers the caulks and sealants you squeeze out of a tube to protect your windows, doors, fans, roof penetrations, etc. – the routine RV maintenance stuff.

Oh … and one more thing …

With a few exceptions, almost every other “list of best RV sealants” out there is junk. I don’t normally point fingers, but most are just a ploy to get you to buy whatever’s listed on Amazon. This list isn’t perfect – I don’t know every caulk and sealant out there – but it’s an honest commentary on what I believe works best for the DIYer. So take that for whatever it’s worth.

Best of RV Self-Leveling Sealants

Nerd Note: Technically, most of these sealants are technically considered semi-self leveling, since they don’t flow into a thick puddle like a true self-leveling sealant. And that’s a good thing! Otherwise, you’d make a mess all over your roof! Plus, true self-leveling sealants, like concrete seam sealers, don’t adequately protect protrusions like screw heads.

Actually, most “self-leveling” RV sealants were originally developed as lap sealants, designed to seal the overlapping joint between membrane sheets.

Before you select a self-leveling sealant, you’ll need to know what type of roof your RV has. It’s probably one of five options:

  • EPDM*
  • Fiberglass
  • Aluminum
  • PVC*
  • TPO*

*All three of these are plastic single-ply roofing membranes.

1) SikaFlex 715

  • Company: Sika, owned by AP Products
  • Used Where: Roof
  • Best For: EPDM roofs
  • Product Data Sheet

And the number one spot goes to … SikaFlex 715!

SikaFlex 715 was specifically designed for EPDM single-ply roofs, found on most RVs. If you don’t already know, EPDM doesn’t play well with many caulks, sealants and solvents. You’re supposed to avoid mineral spirits, citrus cleaners, asphalt rubbers, etc. It’s finicky about its chemistry.

715 works great with EPDM! It doesn’t make the membrane brittle or weak. And it boasts good adhesion without being impossible to remove later on.

While Sika doesn’t say anything about TPO or PVC, the word on the grapevine is that it works well with other plastic membranes. And yes, it also works on aluminum and (most) fiberglass roofs. Confirm adhesion and compatibility on a test piece first!

SikaFlex 715 is a cross-linking one-component silane terminated polymer sealant (say that five times fast!) Notice the word “cross-linking”? That means the cured compound is far more elastic and solid than the typical RV flowable sealant, which is more gum or putty-like. 715 is more resistant to abrasion and less likely to shrink and crack.

SikaFlex also has better compatibility with acrylic skylights, unlike some of its competitors.

It skins over in about 30-45 minutes, and it’s ready for light rain in 1-2 hours after a full skin forms. Wait at least 24 hours for a heavy rain.

Problems Known?

SikaFlex 715 enjoys a great reputation for durability and UV resistance!

Unfortunately, initial installation may take some work. Sika demands a clean substrate. For many RV owners, that means removing all the old Dicor, and that means a full afternoon’s worth of work and bad language!

Also, adhesion to super-smooth plastics, like the mounting flange of a Dometic roof fan, is questionable. You might need to spray the surface with a plastic etching primer or rough up the surface with medium-grit sandpaper first.

2) Alpha Systems 1021

  • Company: Alpha Systems, owned by Lippert
  • Used Where: Roof
  • Best For: TPO roofs
  • Product Data Sheet

Many campers, such as Grand Design and Keystone, use the Alpha Systems TPO roofing system. It’s a single-ply roofing membrane, like EPDM, but with a different chemical composition.

Advantages of TPO roofs include:

  • More resistant to impact and puncture
  • Can be welded
  • Better sunlight reflectivity
  • No chalking! Better UV resistance

However, it’s not a great idea to use Dicor 501 on a TPO roof. It can cause bubbling.

I recommend you use Alpha Systems 1021 sealant on your Alpha TPO roof. They’re made for each other!

Unlike other roof sealants, 1021 takes a long time to cure. It takes 2 hours to skin over, and it shouldn’t be exposed to heavy rain for at least 24 hours. So don’t apply it if a thunderstorm is on the way!

Problems Known?

When cold, 1021 doesn’t self-level very well. Warm up the tube to 80 degrees before applying, and use a hairdryer or heat gun to warm up the surface to at least 50 degrees (no hotter than 120 degrees).


RecPro sells a private label version of this sealant.

3) LaSalle Bristol XTRM Universal Sealant

  • Company: LaSalle Bristol, owned by Patrick Industries
  • Used Where: Roof
  • Best For: PVC roofs
  • Product Data Sheet

If your camper has a PVC roofing membrane, such as a Highland Ridge travel trailer, you should consider using XTRM Universal Sealant!

Many campers with PVC membranes use the XTRM system, originally developed by Engineer Polymer Technologies (EPT) and distributed exclusively through LaSalle Bristol.

Benefits of a PVC membrane include:

  • No chalking
  • No routine treatments required
  • Abrasion resistance
  • Tear strength

LaSalle Bristol sells a sealant specifically for the XTRM called XTRM Universal Sealant, and that’s the recommended product for their PVC roofing system.

12-24 hours is recommended before exposing the sealant to any rain.

Problems Known?

I like this sealant a lot! I’ve never run into any compatibility or cracking issues. It’s not quite as nice as SikaFlex 715, but it’s affordable, easy to find, and easy to apply.

Most manufacturers, like XTRM/EPI, recommend using “their” brand of sealant for “their” roofing membrane. Hopefully, that recommendation is based on laboratory testing and not marketing-ese!

4) Dicor 501

  • Company: Dicor, owned by Airxcel
  • Used Where: Roof
  • Best For: If you already use 501 on your roof.
  • Product Data Sheet

Dicor 501 is the Big Daddy of self-leveling RV roof sealants! You’ll find this 10.3-oz cartridge carried in just about every RV supply store.

It’s compatible with roof membranes like EPDM, TPO, and PVC. It’s also compatible with fiberglass, aluminum, and galvanized metal. Oh, and wood. Which basically means there’s nothing on your roof it isn’t compatible with.*

*However … some manufacturers state that Dicor 501 doesn’t adhere well to their PVC or TPO roofing membranes, or that 501 causes bubbling of TPO due to off-gassing while curing. See other recommendations on this list.

Dicor 501 has the consistency of a melted marshmallow. You apply it using a standard squeeze caulk gun. It can create watertight seals around air vents, vent pipes, roof edges, and screw heads. Once you squeeze it out as a 3/8″ bead, it slumps into a softer shape, but never puddles.

You’ll commonly see 501 used around roof fan flanges and vent pipe penetrations. Quite frankly, it looks kind of ugly (especially after six months of road dust and bird poop), but it does the job.

It’s a fan favorite for a few reasons.

  • It lasts a good long while. Unlike a cap sealant, which is supposed to be replaced annually, Dicor self-leveling roof sealant can be left alone for years. You’ll know it needs to be replaced when it begins lifting or cracking.
  • It skins fast. A skin begins forming in as little as 5 minutes, and the seal is rain-ready in 4 hours.

BONUS: Dicor 501 is a HAPS Free sealant, meaning it does not release any hazardous air polluting substances.

Problems known?

Over time and with UV exposure, Dicor 501 is known to crack and need resealing (that’s typical for many self-leveling sealants). While you can apply new 501 over old, if you need to remove all the old 501, you’ll be on your hands and knees for hours! Scraping 501 sealant is like scraping bubble gum. It’s miserable.

Also, don’t breathe this stuff in. Or set it on fire. Most self-leveling sealants are full of solvents (that’s why they ooze), and most of those solvents are flammable and toxic when inhaled.


If you like Dicor 501 but wish you could get it as a regular non-sag sealant, then check out Dicor 651 Non-Leveling Ultra Sealant. However, you will need to use a primer on TPO, EPDM, and polypropylene (like smooth plastic roof fan flanges).

Alternatives for Self-Leveling RV Roof Sealants

  • Heng’s NuFlex 311: A flowable, one-part, neutral-cure, elastomeric silicone sealant. Known to be fairly runny. Skins over in 60-90 minutes; allow at least 2 hours before exposure to light rain. Recommended by some manufacturers, like Winnebago, for fiberglass roofs, but also compatible with EPDM and TPO.
  • Alpha Systems 5121: If you’re in need of a semi-adhesive self-leveling sealant, check out this sealant. It’s finicky to install – 12 hours to develop a skin, minimum temperature 40 degrees – but it’ll stick like pine sap once cured. It’s 100% solids, so it doesn’t shrink or crack.
  • Sashco Through the Roof!: If you’re in need of an emergency repair – even if its wet or snowing outside! – you might consider Sashco Through the Roof!, a spreadable elastomeric sealant. It’s quite runny, so you brush it on with a foam paintbrush. It’s rain-ready immediately after application, and it’s also crystal clear. Geocel ProFlex Brushable is a similar product, but NEITHER ONE can be used on EPDM or other rubber roofing membranes!

Best of RV Non-Sag Sealants

Nerd Note: Non-sag caulks and sealants hold their shape when applied and tooled. They are usually applied using a caulk gun as a bead 1/4″ to 3/8″ in diameter.

What’s the difference between a caulk and sealant? Honestly, the two terms are often interchangeable. Caulk is a nautical term; sealant is a home construction term.

A caulk is fairly dry and rigid, designed to be used at a joint where there is minimal expansion and contraction. Caulks are sometimes used as fillers. Sealants, especially elastomerics, are highly flexible. Plus, sealants are expressly designed to waterproof; caulks may only be cosmetic.

1) Geocel ProFlex RV

  • Company: Geocel, owned by Sherwin Williams
  • Used Where: Walls
  • Best For: Aluminum, fiberglass
  • Product Data Sheet

Guys, I love this stuff. I really do. It’s the only product I use on my personal camper.

I have an affinity for solvent-based butyl rubber elastomeric sealants. They’re rubbery, tough, elastic, rain-ready, and darn near impossible to kill.

The downside to ProFlex RV is that it can’t be used EPDM, TPO, or PVC roofs. It’s solvent-based, and those solvents can melt or damage the roofing membrane during the cure. Also, ProFlex RV can’t be used on plastic acrylic surfaces, like bubble windows or skylights. But for run-of-the-mill cap sealant work, I love it!

  • Sticks to literally anything.
  • Can be easily tooled with a soapy finger.
  • Crystal clear and doesn’t yellow
  • New ProFlex will stick to old ProFlex (with sufficient preparation)

I don’t reseal my camper every year. I reseal it with ProFlex RV once, and forget about it for another 5-10 years.

Problems Known?

It’s a bear to remove. Not as bad as silicone, but you’ll need a sharp scraper or mechanical abrasion pad. Sometimes, because ProFlex cures to a hard substance, you can usually pull up long sections like a string. And you don’t have to remove every ounce of old ProFlex to install the new stuff.

I advocate for mechanical over chemical removal. ProFlex RV can be removed with petroleum-based solvents like acetone or mineral spirits, but it turns into a goopy mess – and you usually don’t want those harsh solvents anywhere near your RV!

You might be wondering, “Why don’t the OEMs use this sort of stuff if it’s so good?”

Well, that’s a complicated answer. For one thing, ProFlex RV is about twice as expensive. And when you’re churning through umpteen-thousands-of-tubes a year, that means you’re spending another $1.5 million just on non-sag sealant (true story, actually).

For another, most of the “superior” RV sealants last longer and stick better. As a customer, for you, that’s a good thing. As an OEM, that’s a double-edged sword, because when a dealer changes you $179 an hour for warranty work, an extra two hours for caulk removal adds up in a hurry!

I’m not justifying the use of crummy sealants from the RV industry. I’m just pointing out the cost-benefits analysis from an economic standpoint.

2) Sashco Lexel

I consider Sashco Lexel an improved version of Geocel ProFlex. It’s a little pricier, but it boasts incredible performance. High-performance contractors swear by it, and I’ll happily use it myself in place of ProFlex.

Lexel is a solvent-based elastomeric caulk. It’s completely clear and, true to the marketing materials, really does stick to just about anything! As an elastomeric caulk, Lexel is capable of bridging large gaps, up to 2 inches with a backer rod!

Lexel is carried in most home improvement stores. It’s a completely clear tube with white and red lettering. And the red nozzle screws off and on, which may help with storage space!

Lexel has an incredibly wide range of applications. It can be applied at almost any temperature (down to 0 degrees), on wet or hot surfaces, indoors or outdoors, vertical or horizontal. It’s absolutely crystal clear, and can be tooled with a soapy finger.

Lexel bonds to hard plastics like ABS and PVC better than most sealants, but it’s not recommended for use on EPDM rubber roofs. It CAN, unlike many sealants, be used on acrylic and polycarbonate (like Lexan)!

Fun Fact: Sashco is the only independent manufacturer on this list!

Problems Known?

Not many! It’s only 56% solids by weight, so you’ll get a lot of shrinkage. And like most sealants, it doesn’t stick well to old silicone. And like most solvent-based caulks, once opened, it has a very short shelf life.

Like most sealants (especially solvent-based products), Sashco has some level of toxicity. Follow the safety guidelines!

3) Dicor 551

  • Company: Dicor, owned by Airxcel
  • Used Where: Walls
  • Best For: Aluminum, fiberglass
  • Product Data Sheet

Meet 551, the other half of Dicor’s one-two punch. Dicor sells bajillions of these tubes every year (and yes, bajillion is a technical term).

551 was originally developed as a non-sag sealant for roofing applications, but it’s become the de facto standard for RV sidewall caulk. You can find it anywhere from vent pipes to window perimeters.

Unlike many sidewall RV caulks, 551 is compatible with virtually all common RV substrates, such as EPDM, TPO, aluminum, fiberglass, steel, and wood. That’s quite impressive! Nothing else on this list has as much versatility.

551 skins in 5-15 minutes and is waterproof in 5 hours.

Note: This product WILL cause your EPDM roof to bubble – temporarily! The material evaporates petroleum-based solvents that soften and “melt” the EPDM membrane. This is by design! As a lap sealant, this stuff is supposed to bond two layers of EPDM by fusing their surfaces. After a little while, the EPDM *should return to normal

*should … which leads me to ..

Problems Known?

Dicor 551 has a LOT of solvents in it! It shrinks like wilted lettuce. Don’t exceed a bead size of ¼” to ⅜”, and you’ll need to tool the bead. Otherwise, as it shrinks, it can leave holes or gaps.

Like 501, 551 can crack after years of outdoor exposure. You’ll need to scrape off most (not all) of the sealant, clean the area, and apply a new bead. New 551 will stick to old 551.

4) SikaFlex 211

  • Company: Sika, owned by AP Products
  • Used Where: Walls
  • Best For: Aluminum, fiberglass
  • Product Data Sheet

SikaFlex 211 is the only polyurethane non-sag sealant on this list!

Urethane sealants tend to be quite strong and capable of bonding many surfaces. They cure in reaction to atmospheric moisture, which means weather has a big impact on how fast they skin over and cure through!

There are a few things you should know about 211 upfront.

  • You can’t get SikaFlex 211 in clear (nor can you find any 1-part polyurethane sealant in clear).
  • Don’t let it come in contact with alcohol! If you use alcohol to clean your substrate, let all the alcohol flash off.
  • It’s recommended you apply 211 at temperatures above 59 degrees (and definitely no lower than 41 degrees).

So it’s a bit more finicky than, say, Sashco Lexel. But once cured, 211 doesn’t let go. Hardly ever! Seal it once and forget about it for years.

Also, new 211 will stick to old.

Problems Known?

211 can only be removed mechanically. That means scraping and grinding, folks. It’s not an easy job, so don’t use this stuff anywhere you’ll be re-sealing annually!

5) OSI Quad Max

  • Company: OSI, owned by Henkel
  • Used Where: Walls
  • Best For: Aluminum, fiberglass
  • Product Data Sheet

You might be a bit surprised to see OSI Quad MAX on this list. There’s no mention of “RV” anywhere on the OSI website, and it’s not marketed as an RV-specific product.

So let me be clear: There are better RV caulks on the market!

But say you’re in a rush. There’s no RV supply stores near you, just a Lowe’s or a Home Depot. And you only need a tube or two. So you rush into the Big Box Store and scratch your head, staring at rows upon rows of construction-grade caulks and sealants. Which one should you use for your RV?

Most of them belong nowhere near your RV! (Many don’t belong in your house, either).

My recommendation for an affordable multipurpose RV caulk from a home improvement store is OSI Quad MAX. It’s not the most amazing sealant on the market. It’s a bit thick and difficult to tool (OSI recommends no tooling, actually). And the colder it gets, the thicker it becomes.

But it ticks all the big boxes:

  • Affordable!
  • Clear, doesn’t yellow
  • Isn’t ruined if stored in freezing conditions
  • Can be applied to damp, hot, or freezing surfaces
  • 5-minute skin time; rain-ready in an hour or less!
  • Compatible with metal, fiberglass, EPDM, vinyl, steel, wood, and coated aluminum
  • Good adhesion, flexibility and durability
  • Not too difficult to remove

If you’re looking to color-match, OSI Quad MAX is also available in thousands of custom colors, since it’s marketed as a window, door, and siding sealant.

… But before you buy Quad MAX, I’d look a little longer and see if there’s any Sashco Lexcel on the shelves!

Problems Known?

Just one big caveat: OSI Quad MAX is not recommended for single-ply roofing membranes like EPDM, TPO or PVC! Which means you can’t use it on your RV roof.

Alternatives for Non-Sag RV Roof Sealants

  • SikaFlex 505 UV: It’s a silane-terminated polymer (STP) adhesive sealant with a lot of potential uses for RV exterior sealing. High-performance stuff! See the full line of SikaFlex RV adhesive and sealants here.
  • Tremco Vulkem 116: I’ve never used it, so I can’t comment on its effectiveness. It seems popular with the DIY Airstream crowd.
  • Trempro 635 is a high-performance, low-to-medium modulus, one-component, gun-grade polyurethane sealant. The sealant cures to a flexible rubber when exposed to atmospheric moisture.” Can’t be applied to damp surfaces, though.
  • Dicor 351: It’s a cap sealant, used around exterior windows, doors, vents, etc. Compatible materials include everything from plywood, rubber, fiberglass, and all types of metal – that’s pretty impressive!
  • DAP DynaFlex 230: Think of this as a poor man’s elastomeric caulk. It’s a siliconized latex caulk. But it doesn’t last half as long as a good urethane or terpolymer elastomeric. However, it cleans up easily with water, and it can be easily stripped and reapplied, unlike most semi-permanent caulks.
  • Silicone: If you’re a fan of silicones (no, they aren’t all evil), then you want a one-part, neutral-cure, fast-cure RTV (aka oxime), low- or medium-modulus silicone caulk. Good luck finding these at your local home improvement store! The closet you’ll get is probably GE Advanced Silicone 2 (that’s Silicone 2, not 1!). Some RV stores may carry Sikasil N-Plus, a neutral-cure silicone sealant.

Best of RV Adhesive Sealants

Nerd Note: Ah, so we’ve entered the dangerous and little-understood world of adhesive sealants!

These sealants can save you or break you. Use them wisely and strategically to both adhere (glue) and waterproof. Use them where they don’t belong, and you’ll spend hours sanding, sanding, sanding …

Fair warning: Adhesive sealants are permanent or semi-permanent! They don’t come off easily by design. Most will require mechanical removal (aka scraping, grinding). Unlike a typical sealant, these formulations have some “body” to them.

Adhesive sealants have three basic uses in the RV-o-sphere:

  • Bedding
  • Gaskets
  • Lap joints
  • (Cap sealant)*

*Some RVers are brave enough to use these semi-permanent adhesives on cap sealants around their trim moulding, windows and doors! SikaFlex 221, in particular, is a common choice for RVers who want to do it once and then forget it.

1) SikaFlex 221

  • Company: Sika, owned by AP Products
  • Used Where: Walls
  • Best For: Aluminum, fiberglass
  • Product Data Sheet

SikaFlex 221 is a polyurethane sealant. So there are a couple of differences you should know about.

  • It cures with exposure to atmospheric moisture, so curing will be delayed in dry or extremely humid environments.
  • Can’t tool it with a bare finger! You need mineral spirits or Dawn soapy water.
  • Do NOT let alcohol anywhere near this stuff! It’ll kill the cure. If you clean the bonding surfaces with alcohol, you must let the solvent flash off first.
  • It’s technically an adhesive sealant, but it’s a better sealant than adhesive.
  • Unlike silicone, new 221 sticks to old 221!
  • Can be sanded or painted.
  • NSF-approved! Once cured, it’s approved for food and potable water contact.

Once it skins completely (5-30 minutes, depending on humidity and heat), 221 can be exposed to light rain.

Problems Known?

The big complaint about SikaFlex 221 is the yellowing. Over time, it will fade to an amber color. If you don’t want this, you’ll have to over-paint it.

Once you open a tube, use it up. It won’t last in storage for more than a few weeks at most, and the top of the tube or nozzle will cure, forming a hard plug.

Like all urethane caulks, 221 isn’t available in clear. You’ll need a silicone- or solvent-based elastomeric sealant for that.

Don’t use alcohol as a cleaner for a substrate for any SikaFlex products!

2) 3M 4000 UV

If you come from a boating background, you already know about 3M 4000, 4200, and 5200! These adhesive sealants are rote n’ routine for backyard boat builders.

However, 4200 and 5200 aren’t UV-stable. They need to be painted. And 5200, in particular, isn’t intended for disassembly (read: it ain’t comin’ off!)

4000 was specifically developed for exceptional adhesion and performance on wood and fiberglass. It also adheres well with gel coat and aluminum.

Unlike many other sealants, 3M 4000 UV doesn’t shrink as it cures! It can be applied at temperatures over 40 degrees, and it’s usually ready for light rain within 4-6 hours.

Personally, I wouldn’t use 4000 as a generic cap sealant. It’s too expensive and difficult to remove. But some people swear by it.

Problems Known?

If you want to remove 3M 4000, you’ll need to cut, grind, or sandblast the sealant to get rid of it. 3M even offers a special tool – the Scotch-Brite Molding Adhesive and Stripe Removal Disc – to help you out.

Alternatives for Non-Sag RV Roof Sealants

  • Permatex RTV Silicone: Great for bedding, especially electrical connections.
  • SikaFlex 252: If you like 221, but want a stronger bond!
  • GE Tube & Tile Silicone 2: If you’re looking for an “adhesive sealant” at your local home improvement store, this is my pick. Best used for gaskets and bedding rather than cap sealing. Get the Silicone 2 (neutral-cure) version, not the Silicone 1.

Hey, You Missed “Brand X!”

This list doesn’t cover private labels (except for a few listed in the Alternatives sections.)

Case in point: Durevole. If you search Amazon for “self-leveling RV roof sealant,” you find several entries for Durevole self-leveling caulk lap sealant.

Who is Durevole? I, like you, had no idea!

There’s apparently no business portfolio web page. Nothing turns up in the SERPs. On the back of the tube, there’s an address in La Puente, California assigned to Durevole Products, but no such registered entity shows up in the California Secretary of State search. Probably just a DBA/trademark.

In all likelihood, Duravole is a private label company (if a Durevole representative is reading this and I’m wrong, please let me know!).

For instance, in my town, there is a manufacturer of silicone sealants. This Company does all the formulating and mixing. It’s a big operation. Smelly, too!

You, as a private label company, could ask This Company to fill up, say, 10,000 cartridges with self-leveling silicone. For a price, the company would print your information and logo on the cartridge. You can then market and sell this product as your own. There’s no indication on the cartridge that anyone besides Your Brand is responsible.

You can even sign up for a 3PL or fulfillment service, such as Amazon FBA, and let another company do all the warehouse and fulfillment work! You’d be the face of the brand – nothing more.

I don’t have a problem with private labels. But there’s no point in “reviewing” private label products. Many don’t even know what’s really in their products! At most, they can provide an SDS or MDS sheet, generated by the OEM. They’re marketers, not chemists. Generally, they target the retail market; you won’t find them in many distributors.

Don’t confuse private labels with retail brands. Dicor, for instance, is owned by Airxcel. Airxcel, in turn, (as of September 2021) is now owned by Thor Industries. Who owns half the RV industry.

Airxcel owns everything from Maxxair vent fans to Suburban propane stoves to Coleman-Mach air conditioners to Cleer Vision tempered glass windows. It’s hard to generate brand loyalty for a grabby conglomerate, so Airxcel keeps selling its adhesives under the Dicor company.

This is true for most components on this list. EternaBond is owned by Royal Adhesives (owned by H.B. Fuller), OSI is owned by Henkel Industries, Geocel is owned by Sherwin Williams, Alpha Systems is owned by Lippert, Sika is owned by AP Products. And most of those are probably owned by various hedge funds. It’s just the world we live in.

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